Ocean gift


One of the thing I love of surfing is that every single day is different.
Even in the same spot and similar whether condition you never know what to aspect.
Until you stand on the beach looking at the lineup, you don't know if it will be a good day or not and then, even when you are out there, you can't really figure out what is going to happen.
When you are out there, every single wave could be the right one... even a single moment could make the difference between having fun and living something you will never forget!
That morning we were on the north shore looking to the lineup from the beach, there were clean lines rolling out there, a strong off shore wind blowing on the sets and few people around.
As soon as we reached the lineup we realized that we were really lucky to be there and we started screaming and laughing as child lost in a candy shop.

The wind was strong and the waves were powerful, the spot was working great, the water was deep blue and the sun was shining, every element was right, it was amazing!
We had really fun for the whole morning sliding trough those long walls made of water and then, in an undefined moment, the magic became reality: another set came in, I was sitting alone a bit further than the other guys in the lineup and the lines started growing up right in front of me. I paddled against the wind and I stood on my board looking at the wall I was up to ride off, my board was gliding fast up and down the line until I came in the last section of that long wave and, in a while, I realized that a fat lip was up to roll right up on me.
It has been amazing and almost unreal, I stood in that fat barrel thinking I could not came out, looking at that raw mass of water rolling around me...and suddenly my board got faster and the wave blew me out!
I could not believe I came out of that barrel, the other guys out there were stunned. My friends looking from the beach saw me and my 7'4” totally disappear in the barrel and then, when they saw me coming out again, they all started screaming for that unexpected bomb!
Till that undefined moment it had been a day like many others and then suddenly and as if by magic I got one of the best barrel I could ever imagine.
I will definitely remember that day for the rest if my life and not only because of that awesome barrel... but especially because I could share that joyful moment with my friends.

So don't trust your eyes, trust your heart, go out there and stay wet, ocean's gifts are always coming!

@Marco Milone
(big waves lover)

Photo credit Daniele Deiana